21 posts tagged “food”

http://community.nytimes.com/article/comments/2008/06/04/dining/04recipes.html?s=4

Me!  An editor's pick at the NYTimes!  And I had the forethought to post my blog address.

I've been perusing the Cincinnati Magazine restaurant issue since I got it, in case I missed something or forgot about a restaurant I wanted to try (I do that a lot!). I've read, over and over, an article in the section that includes comments from local chefs—anonymous, of course. First, apparently the hot kitchen sex only happens in Anthony Bourdain's world (bummer); nearly all of them are tired of foam (thank goodness) and Kobe beef (rarely from Kobe, Japan; it's a word that has become the meat world's champagne, and most of it is Wagyu, a breed of cow that can be raised anywhere); they wish the entire city didn't dine at 7:30 (I tend to dine towards 8:30-9 PM, thankyouverymuch); and French cooking is out and Latin flavors are in. There is one phrase that caught my eye, and I've been thinking about since I read it. When asked what they would wish for in Cincinnati dining, someone said, "More real foodies, not wanna-bes."

What does that mean?

What makes a real foodie? Am I a real foodie?

Most everyone I've met in the (very!) short time I've been writing this blog has been so enthusiastic about the work I'm doing. Sure, some customers look at me a little funny when I whip out my camera as soon as the waiter walks away, but I'm not that easily embarrassed. Not many people do this around here—LA, NY, SF, and other places with bigger populations and a faster restaurant turnover cycle than Cincinnati have tons of bloggers—and only recently has Cincinnati begun to have its own culinary stamp (outside of Skyline and Graeters and other local favorites). Many of the industry people I've talked with are happy that someone who is not on a newspaper's payroll is writing about experiences as a customer.

On the flip side, some folks aren’t so enamored with the idea of blogging; they believe culinary writers should have culinary backgrounds. I think, perhaps, that they're missing the point. Culinary training certainly builds an excellent foundation for food enjoyment—you learn the fundamental techniques of Western cuisine and, by repetition, learn to make them in both large quantities and with consistent quality. You apply that quantity and consistency to the line, delivering the desired products based on your skill, training, and artistry. It is difficult, physically and mentally draining work, and I applaud the chefs, who largely go unseen by customers. However, the average customer at a restaurant is not a chef. Customers may not know how to cook without opening a frozen dinner, or may be good at a few standards, or maybe they’ve never have taken a cooking class.

Some chefs embrace food bloggers (and blog themselves). Others, like Mario Batali, think we're a scourge upon the restaurant industry. Some food bloggers prefer the scoop to research, and some might argue that there is a lack of journalistic integrity and accountability in blogging, since so much of it is anonymous. Okay, so some bloggers might be in it for notoriety, free food, or social status, etc. There are definitely food blog haters out there (who aren't Batali); some think that we all need to have worked the culinary industry to be "more understanding." How many of us, on a daily basis, judge something as "good" or "bad" without formal training in the subject? I know next to nothing about the mechanics of cars, but I know that I like the way my car handles, and I also know that when a funny sound comes out, something's wrong with it. I know that when it's spring and I start sneezing, I should probably take a Claritin.

I've been cooking since I was a wee tot, and grew up on The Frugal Gourmet and Justin Wilson and Julia Child. I have a fairly educated palate (becoming more educated daily, and I still have a long way to go), and I am a fairly accomplished home cook (unless you count the bacon brittle, which was awful!). With the Internet, foodies are more common, because we have more access to knowledge about good, seasonal, artisanal, and exotic food that our grandmothers (in their Jello-mold haze) couldn't have imagined.

Web 2.0 has opened an entirely new opportunity for people who fall between being a trained chef and chain-restaurant diner. Sites like Chowhound, Epicurious, The Kitchen, Eater and The Accidental Hedonist give a voice to people who truly enjoy food: cooking, eating, and learning about it. There is less of a hierarchy. As one commenter put it on Eater.com:

With respect, I think a lot of you are missing the point about blogs in general. Most "food bloggers" are not pretending to be critics, but are sharing their experiences, prejudices, biases, and opinions. The absence of any pretense at journalistic standards is what makes the blogosphere…so interesting.

Don't think journalism.

Think cocktail party. Maybe after an hour and half of cocktails. Buck Callahan.

That's exactly what the Internet is: one big cocktail party where people have opinions and share them with others. You have to sort out the good from the bad; many blogs are well researched and are based on first-hand experiences. And of course some blogs (Yahoo Answers, Yelp, and Citysearch, etc.) have essentially anonymous and often vitriolic posts that aren't as reliable. There are major news outlets that put out unresearched stories, and there are blogs that are often better researched than the average newspaper.

What it boils down to is this: Chefs and food writers (whether they're restaurant reviewers, bloggers, or whomever) have opinions and have, historically, been at odds with each other. As a food blogger, I am not out to ruin anyone's business. I try to write well-researched posts that highlight the sort of food I like and discover. I hope that my reviews will help Cincinnati readers break the habit of going to known chain restaurants and start trying locally owned restaurants (or very small chains) that might be out of their comfort zone. I love good food, and hope I introduce you to some good stuff that you might not have tried.

What is a foodie? A foodie is someone who loves food. Good food. They want to know where it comes from, why it's good, how to prepare it, and how to enjoy it. If my lack of formal culinary training makes me a wanna-be foodie, so be it. I’ll keep enjoying wonderful meals and taking pictures of the fun.

I've been listening to the Once soundtrack a lot lately.  I think it's been in my head since my friend Amanda saw the movie (half on my recommendation) and we talked about it.  I love the harmonies on "When Your Mind's Made Up".

I've also been listening to a backlog of This American Life. The one from a couple of weeks ago that talks about a child who was ostracized from her peers for being Muslim really got to me . Now I'm listening to "How to Rest in Peace".

I've gone back to the gym.  I went to a trainer on Monday, which was fun but wow-- expensive.  Something like $300 a month for the program I would like.  So, for now, I'm going to do the exercises prescribe on Sparkpeople.  I can do it, right?

I finally took down my Christmas tree.  When did tree bags come into vogue?  My mom bought me one since the original box pretty much disintegrated the last time I moved the darn thing.  Right now, it looks like I have an overweight mobster stuffed in a bright green Hefty bag with handles where my tree used to be.  Next to it are two plastic tubs filled with ornaments and other holiday detritus.  All of this amuses Mooch and Mrs. Mia Wallace.  Me?  Not so much.

Speaking of Mrs. Mia Wallace, she is doing very well.  She's still occasionally hissy if Mooch or Mulder get too close, but she's using the litter box, eating, and roaming around the apartment.  Last night, as I watched TV, she hopped in my lap for pets, and I woke up this morning as the filling of a kitty sandwich: Mooch on one side, Mrs. Mia Wallace on the other.  I'm very  happy she's adjusted so well.  Now, hopefully, she'll use the box in the bathroom and I can get rid of the box next to my bed. 

I picked up a few books to help me with this food writing thing.  I'm trying to balance the desire to be a good food writer with the desire to NOT be part of the "establishment".  We'll see how this goes.  Meanwhile, books for your perusal:

Jacques Pepin's Complete Techniques

Jacques Pépin

The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute

Michael Ruhlman

The Elements of Cooking: Translating the Chef's Craft for Every Kitchen

Michael Ruhlman

The New Food Lover's Companion

Sharon Tyler Herbst

There wasn't a whole lot of dining out going on at Chez Julie-- sort of strange, considering most weekends I dine out at least twice. I seem to have gotten a domestic bug, and inspired by my recent week in Europe, wanted something I had in Paris: boeuf Bourguignon I combed through my fairly extensive cookbook collection (I collect them, it's a bit of a sickness) and settled on the recipe from Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook. I didn't have a whole lot of time to go to the grocery store, so I swung by Findlay Market, where I did all of my shopping in 15 minutes. I first stopped by Eckerlin's for some flat iron steak (a substitute for the paleron called for in the book, which is a cut not readily available in the US), then ran across the street to Angelina's, where I picked up some really great Roquefort and Gruyere for a cheese plate (and a sample of their homemade rhum baba, which were awesome-- highly recommended!). I rounded out my trip at Madison's for produce, some Mango-Ginger Stilton (an impulse purchase, but such a tasty dessert cheese) and some Findlay Market blend coffee. It took me less than ten minutes (including banter with the clerks) and the meal was one of the best I've made in a while. Since I had friends over, I didn't want to subject them to my food-photography weirdness, but I did get a couple of shots of the Findlay Market haul.

My only complaint? There is no wine shop at Findlay-- the closest wine shops to downtown being The Party Source and the Wine Shop on Ludlow. I hear a rumor that a wine shop is opening at Findlay-- anyone have any insight on that?

Terry and I went back on Sunday to buy groceries for Sunday night's dinner, which was an old-fashioned meat loaf and mashed potatoes. The meat loaf recipe is from The New Best Recipe, which is my go-to cookbook for classics that I want to turn out perfectly. It's produced by the Cook's Illustrated folks, and I've never cooked a bad dish out of that book. Again, everything-- including the ground veal and peppered bacon-- were from various stands at Findlay. Too bad it's so quiet on Sundays-- I really wish I'd see Findlay open and vibrant every day-- but we still got great service and, of course, great food. I think meatloaf sandwiches are in my future for dinner tonight.

I also finally joined the food blog bandwagon and made Mark Bittman's No-Knead Bread. I don't know why I haven't made this before-- it's simple (though it involves patience, which, when it comes to cooking, I often don't have) and unbelievably delicious-- soft on the inside, crackly-crusted on the outside-- it'll become part of my new weekend repertoire, I think. Who doesn't like fresh bread? And who doesn't like easy fresh bread? I hear that Cook's Illustrated has "perfected" the recipe, so I may try that one next, but for now, Mark Bittman's will do quite well.

And one last note-- major thanks to Michelle over at My Wine Education for her warm welcome to the Cincinnati blogging community. So far I've put my toe in over at Cincinnati Blog, and this is my first foray into a blog that encompasses two things I love: Cincinnati and food. I hope you'll enjoy it as much as I do!

I've got oatmeal in the crock pot, waiting for me to turn it on for tomorrow morning.  It's Alton Brown's recipe, but instead of figs I used some Medjool dates I had in the fridge (I have a very eclectic pantry/fridge). 

I just gave Mulder his first sub-q fluid treatment.  He was very good, but when I was finished he was a little mad, I could tell.  He's now grooming himself on my chair.  I realized I don't have a sharps box for his needles, so I just sort of wrapped it up in a paper towel and popped it in the trash.  Hopefully, no one goes through the trash and finds it. 

And, I've taken my first dose from my Z-pack.  I saw my new doctor today (my old one moved back to the east coast) and I really liked him.  He was sort of amazed that I'm not on any medication right now-- in the past, I'd been treated for depression, anxiety, bipolar disorder and PCOS, and now I'm not on anything, I'm almost 25 pounds lighter than my heaviest weight.  I told him I just got divorced, and he said, "Wow.  I guess you were in a bad marriage, huh?"  I don't necessarily think that's it (well, I'm sure that's part of it), but I am happier than I've ever been, and I think that has a lot to do with good health.  I really DID have a lot of emotional problems in my late teens/early 20s, but I'm wondering if that was hormonal, or something else.  I'm not sure, but it's great that I'm on nothing now and, again, happier than I've ever been.  Even my mother has commented on it.  She noticed that I was actually looking forward to the holidays.  I haven't looked forward to them in years. 

In addition, I seem to be doing everything else well, health-wise-- good cholesterol, good blood pressure.  My weight is still a little high for my age and height, but I'm working on that.  I guess I'm finally at a good place in life.  I am not complaining.

• Oz.  Seriously, how did I miss this show?  Now, I am a huge Christopher Meloni fan, but even before his character Keller was on the show, I found it incredibly compelling, well written, and the characters were surprisingly sympathetic.  Who would have thought I'd love the stories of prisoners? (And who would have thought I'd be so interested in guys making out?  I'm talking to you, Keller and Beecher!) I'm on the first disc of Season 3 after watching it on HBO On Demand. 
  

If your Vox Neighborhood had a potluck dinner tonight, what dish, drink or dessert would you bring?

I'd bring my killer Mac and Cheese.

Well, technically, it's Alton's, but who cares?  It's delicious.

I think I sense a weekend project!

Make Your Own Halloween Candy Bars: Corner-store sweets go high-end - CHOW

http://www.chow.com/stories/10746

Carve all the jack-o’-lanterns you want—the truth is, Halloween comes down to two things: your costume and how much candy you can accumulate. Though many of us shamelessly don getups well past adolescence, CHOW draws the line at begging for candy alongside the neighborhood kids. Infuse the holiday with some semblance of maturity with our souped-up take on four beloved candy bars. Give the store-bought stuff to the trick-or-treaters who come knocking, and save these for yourself.

http://www.myaimistrue.com/archives/2007/01/diy_magnetic_spice_rack.html

I think in my free time (ha!) I'm going to try to make this.  Instead of putting it on my stove (which I couldn't do anyway, as my stove is the sort that drops in to my island), I'm going to either mount the knife magnets on the inside of my pantry or, since it is not in direct sunlight at all, on the side of my refrigerator.  Now, if Ikea would just open up here...

I also need to get one of these as I prefer to have my salt readily available.  I might grab one of these instead; I haven't decided.

I really need to cook more, so I figure why not make it easier on myself?

...by popular demand.

Hummus
(My own recipe, but not really that different from most others)

2 cans of garbanzo beans, drained.
2-3 cloves of garlic, peeled
Juice of one lemon
Salt
Olive oil

All I do for hummus is pop the two cans' worth of garbanzos into the food processor along with the garlic and lemon.  I tend to not put tahini in because 1) I never have it because 2) it spoils.  I prefer it without; it has a much lighter and fresher taste.  Turn on the food processor, and blend until the above are nice and mushy.  Add olive oil through the spout until you get the right consistency-- very smooth, thick, but a little runny.  Salt to taste.  Plop it on a dinner plate and garnish with paprika and more olive oil.

Chipotle-Orange Glazed Cornish Game Hens
(From America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook, paraphrased)

Six cornish game hens, giblets removed, wings tucked underneath and drumsticks tied together
One cup of orange marmalade (I used Trader Joe's Apricot-Orange marmalade, as they were out of orange. Delish. I also double the recipe for the glaze, so two chipotles and two cups of marmalade.  I only cover the chickens with a quarter of the glaze, then use the rest for the sauce!)
One chipotle pepper in adobo
Three tablespoons butter (one half tablespoon for each chicken)
Three tablespoons butter, melted
2 cups chicken stock
salt
pepper

Roasting pan
baking rack

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Place the baking rack inside the roasting pan, and pour two cups of chicken stock into the pan.  The hens rest on the rack; the stock keeps the hens from sticking and helps to form the sauce you will make later.

Blend apricot preserves and chipotle in a food processor until smooth.  Set aside.

Stuff one half tablespoon of butter under the skin of each breast.  This ensures the breasts stay moist.  Put all six of the hens  on the rack, and brush with melted butter.  Salt and pepper to taste.

Put the hens in the oven, and bake at 400 for 45-55 minutes or until an instant read thermometer reads 170 degrees in the breast. 

Remove hens from oven and brush with half (1/4 if doubled) of the glaze.  Put back in the oven for 2-3 minutes for the glaze to set.  Remove hens to a serving platter to let sit for ten minutes.

Deglaze the pan with the remainder of the glaze, stirring to thicken and incorporate the yummy brown bits on the bottom.  Serve the sauce on the side.

Nigella Lawson's Chocolate Babycakes

Half stick soft unsalted butter, plus more for greasing

12oz bittersweet chocolate (I used E. Guittard's)

three quarters cup sugar

4 large eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract (Forgot this, still turned out well)

third of a cup flour

6 individual pudding moulds, buttered (Pyrex ramekins, the six ounce kind, worked well.)

baking paper (Baking parchment)

Unless you are making these up in advance, preheat the oven to 400F, putting in a baking sheet at the same time. Lay 3 of the moulds on a sheet of doubled baking paper. Draw round them, remove, and then cut out the discs as marked. Press them all into the base of the tins.

Melt the chocolate and let it cool slightly. Cream together the butter and sugar, and gradually beat in the eggs and salt, then the vanilla. Now add the flour, and when all is smoothly combined scrape in the cooled chocolate, blending it to a smooth batter.

Divide the batter between the 6 moulds, quickly whip the baking sheet out of the oven, arrange the little tins on it and replace in the oven. Cook for 10-12 minutes (the extra 2 minutes will be needed if the puddings are fridge-cold when you start) and as soon as you take them out of the oven, tip out these luscious babycakes onto small plates or shallow bowls; hot, chocolate goo will ooze out of them as you break them with a greedy spoon. Serve these with cream, crème fraiche, or ice cream as you so desire.

Serves 6.

Wild Mushroom Risotto
from Foodnetwork.com and Alton Brown

6 cups chicken broth
1 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup finely chopped onion
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups Arborio rice
5 ounces wild mushrooms, cooked and coarsely chopped, approximately 3/4 cup
2 ounces grated Parmesan, approximately 1/2 cup
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
In an electric kettle or medium saucepan with a lid, combine chicken broth and white wine and heat just to simmering. Keep warm.

In a large 3 to 4-quart heavy saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onions and a pinch of salt and sweat until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until the grains are translucent around the edges. Be careful not to allow the grains or the onions to brown.

Reduce the heat to low. Add enough of the wine and chicken stock just to cover the top of the rice. Stir or move the pan often, until the liquid is completely absorbed into rice. Once absorbed, add another amount of liquid just to cover the rice and continue stirring or moving as before. There should be just enough liquid left to repeat 1 more time. It should take approximately 35 to 40 minutes for all of the liquid to be absorbed. After the last addition of liquid has been mostly absorbed, add the mushrooms and stir until risotto is creamy and asparagus is heated through. Remove from the heat and stir in the Parmesan, lemon zest, and nutmeg. Taste and season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

*Cook's Note: If fresh wild mushrooms are not available, reconstituted dried mushrooms can be used instead. Place 2 ounces of dried mushrooms into a bowl and cover with warm water. Allow to sit for about 30 minutes or until all the mushrooms are soft and pliable.